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chefs & restaurantsnewswine & drinks

Tini’s Spring Cocktails Are Here, Along With Two New Dishes

by David Dadekian April 1, 2011
written by David Dadekian

The new Spring Cocktails at Tini, from left to right: [verb] my Green Bikini in [place], A Classy [noun], [noun] on the Horizon, [verb] the White Dog, Make Her [verb] This Time

The new Spring Cocktails at Tini, from left to right: (verb) my Green Bikini in (place), A Classy (noun), (noun) on the Horizon, (verb) the White Dog, Make Her (verb) This Time

After this winter, it seems as if everyone is working hard to bring about spring. When I asked bartender Alicia Canning about working on the five new drinks for Tini‘s Spring Cocktail Line she gave kind of a sly smile. I’ll just say bringing about spring at Tini can be intoxicating and leave it at that. It can also be delicious, as proven by Chef Darius Salko’s two new dishes. When I received Salko’s message mentioning a fried chicken skin sandwich you could almost see the swooshing, curly speed lines behind me as I rushed to Tini.

Orange Dream Salad (larger version at end of piece)

Orange Dream Salad (larger version at end of piece)

First, the food. In addition to the fried chicken skin sandwich, which is more properly called The Crackling Club, there is the Orange Dream Salad. I’ll confess, when Salko told me what was in it—orange and grapefruit segments, dates, Bulgarian sheep’s milk Feta cheese, red seedless grapes, torn mint, cinnamon and pomegranate seeds—I wasn’t sure how that combination would work. But I’ve learned to have faith in Salko’s method of putting together good, fresh ingredients in clean, simple ways that create hugely flavorful dishes. Salko told me, “We serve it with two tortillas and you kind of just have a ball,” and he was so right. I highly recommend ordering the Orange Dream Salad, especially if you’re going to also have The Crackling Club, which as you might imagine, is so good (and only a little bit “bad”).

The Crackling Club (larger version at end of piece)

The Crackling Club (larger version at end of piece)

While you might think a fried chicken skin sandwich sounds hedonistic, again, in the Tini style of fresh and simple, it’s really a somewhat light sandwich. I say somewhat because it is a club sandwich, so there’s also house cured & smoked bacon, Allen Farms red mustard greens, sweet cabbage, pickled shallots, bread-and-butter pickles and house made mayonnaise, along with the two chicken cracklings. It’s all piled beautifully on their house made brioche. The chicken skin is perfectly crisped and slightly puffed so the effect is really a somewhat light spring-like club sandwich and not something heavy.

Now, the cocktails. Canning prepared five beautiful drinks for me to play with making photos of, and then of course I got to try them all. The Spring Cocktail Line is called “Ad Lib” and the names of the drinks require the person ordering to fill in some key words, in the style of a favorite childhood written word game. Sure the missing spots in the cocktail names could all be filled-in with words loaded in innuendo, but then who didn’t do that with Mad Libs anyway (0r skipped the innuendo altogether and just went straight to the gutter)? The cocktails are:

  1. White Whisky, Muddled Cucumber = [verb] the White Dog
  2. Cachaça, St. Germain, Basil = [verb] my Green Bikini in [place]
  3. Belvedere, Framboise, Lemon, Champagne = A Classy [noun]
  4. Genever, Maraschino, Violette, Mint = [noun] on the Horizon
  5. Maker’s Mark, TINI Grenadine, Thyme = Make Her [verb] This Time

I really enjoyed the “[verb] the White Dog.” It uses Death’s Door White Whisky which is fermented in stainless steel and finished in uncharred oak barrels so it never gets the caramel color or smoky flavors of a traditional whisky. Personally, I wouldn’t call it a whisky, or maybe label it with an asterisk, because it’s a delicious drink and people who aren’t fans of whisky might pass it by. The “Make Her [verb] This Time” was also a favorite. The thyme and a little touch of salt in it really brings out some subtle flavors. All the drinks were perfectly balanced and should be big hits.

In addition to the new drinks and dishes, Tini is now serving late on Wednesdays with live music. Salko posted, “It’s the Tini Show starting at 10 p.m.! 3 excellent musicians, amazing cocktails, $15 wine bottles, late night grub until 11 p.m. You can’t go wrong! Tini Weenies and Fries will be served for the Music Lovers!”

[verb] the White Dog

(verb) the White Dog

[verb] my Green Bikini in [place]

(verb) my Green Bikini in (place)

A Classy [noun]

A Classy (noun)

[noun] on the Horizon

(noun) on the Horizon

Make Her [verb] This Time

Make Her (verb) This Time

Orange Dream Salad

Orange Dream Salad

The Crackling Club

The Crackling Club

April 1, 2011 0 comments
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chefs & restaurantsfarmsnews

The Blackbird steak sandwich at Tini in Providence, RI

by David Dadekian February 19, 2010
written by David Dadekian
Tini's "The Blackbird" in its purist form—sans catsup

Tini's "The Blackbird" in its purist form—sans catsup

Chef Darius Salko at Tini restaurant in Providence has created a new menu item named after the farm in Smithfield that he sources the beef from. In Chef Salko’s words, “‘The Blackbird’ is Blackbird Farm beef shaved thin and piled high on a soft roll with onions and homemade catsup.”

I got a chance to try the sandwich two ways when I photographed it. I love Blackbird Farm’s beef (I work with the farm often), and Salko uses roast cuts that he chills just enough so that he can slice the meat ultra-thin, then he sautés it with onions and serves in on a warm buttered soft roll, which adds some great flavor. After trying it without catsup I asked Salko to add some and when I saw the amount of catsup on the sandwich I did think for a moment that it might be overwhelming, but it wasn’t in the least. Salko makes the catsup from scratch and the slightly sweet condiment perfectly complements the saltiness in the steak and onions. I also really loved the steak sandwich with the carrots/cumin side as well. Comments from other diners trying the sandwich were all overwhelmingly positive. Everyone at Tini during lunch on Thursday said we could happily eat three or four of the sandwiches.

The point of naming the sandwich “The Blackbird” is to raise awareness of the local beef—100% pedigreed Angus beef—in the sandwich. It’s one thing to list local sources on your menu or in individual dish descriptions, but Chef Salko wanted to put the name of the farm front and center for diners to see. Ann Marie Bouthillette was very excited to have her farm’s name so prominent on Tini’s menu. “The Blackbird” is on both the lunch and dinner menus so head on over to Washington St. in Providence and try it out.

"The Blackbird" dressed with homemade catsup

"The Blackbird" dressed with homemade catsup

"The Blackbird" dressed with homemade catsup

"The Blackbird" dressed with homemade catsup

Chef Darius Salko of Tini and Ann Marie Bouthillette of Blackbird Farm

Chef Darius Salko of Tini and Ann Marie Bouthillette of Blackbird Farm

Some very happy patrons all take a bite of their "Blackbirds"

Some very happy patrons all take a bite of their "Blackbirds"

Tini "The Blackbird"

"The Blackbird" eaten

February 19, 2010 0 comments
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