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A Local Thanksgiving: Purchasing a Turkey or the Whole Meal

by David Dadekian November 9, 2011
written by David Dadekian

turkeysWhether you cook a big Thanksgiving dinner yourself or purchase a complete meal, there are several options for locally raised and produced dinners. This isn’t a comprehensive list of everyone in the area doing turkeys and Thanksgiving meals, but a select group for truly local eats. Here’s to a southern New England Thanksgiving! Raise a glass of local wine or local beer.

Turkeys

If you’re cooking Thanksgiving dinner, locally farm-raised turkeys are definitely the way to go. They’re  more flavorful with better skin than mass-produced turkeys and, since they’re available fresh they’re usually much more moist than frozen birds. Broad-breasted whites, your typical meat turkey, are well raised on pasture with no hormones or other chemicals. The turkeys I’ve had from local turkey farms have been so juicy that I don’t brine them, something I had been doing to grocery store turkeys for years.

There are several farms in the area raising pastured turkeys so please look around your home. I mention these two farms because I’ve had their turkeys. The first is Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm near my home in Sterling, Connecticut (the farm is about 4 miles over the R.I. border). They’re well into their reservation period right now, but because they raise so many still have turkeys available, though I would advise calling now to get the size you’d like. We regularly buy Ekonk Hill turkeys and they’re some of the best birds I’ve ever cooked.

The other turkey I recommend is from the farm I work with, Blackbird Farm. I cooked last year’s turkey from Blackbird Farm on my charcoal grill and everyone raved about it. Unfortunately, our turkeys are already all reserved at the farm stand, but I’m happy to pass along the inside scoop that Persimmon Provisions, a marvelous butcher shop in Barrington, has purchased 30 of the birds to sell at the store. I have no idea what their reservations are like, so I would recommend calling.

Catering

So you want to have a big family dinner at home but aren’t able to cook? You’re going to want to look into one of these options:

Easy Entertaining, Inc. is offering a number of complete dinner packages or a la carte choices. From their order form, “Easy Entertaining Inc. prides itself on sourcing over 70% of products from a 250 mile radius, year-round. Serving a Thanksgiving package from Easy Entertaining Inc. is serving locally raised vegetables from Schartner Farms, Confreda Farms, Cooks Valley, Barden Family Orchards and many more. Feasting with Easy Entertaining is roasting a humanely raised, hormone and antibiotic free, grain fed, happy bird from Baffoni Poultry Farms. Thanksgiving with Easy Entertaining is serving a homemade cranberry-apple sauce, with cranberries grown in bogs less than 30 miles away.” Easy Entertaining’s form with directions can be found here. The deadline for ordering is November 17.

Tastings Wine Bar & Bistro‘s Chef Ben Lacy is putting together a Thanksgiving dinner to be picked up, based around an organically raised farm fresh turkey from Misty Knoll Farms, which you can also purchase uncooked if you want to prepare the bird but not the rest of the meal. Tastings is offering several soups, salads, pies, rolls and 11 different side dishes. Their deadline is November 18 and the order form can be found here.

Tallulah on Thames in Newport is offering a “Farm to Table” Thanksgiving to Go for the second year in a row. The meal includes a heritage breed turkey from Brambly Farms along with many sides made from locally farmed produce. More information can be found on their “To Go” page. The deadline is November 19 and the order form can be found here.

Ripe Hospitality is offering a Thanksgiving meal that not only feeds your family but also gives back to feed others as well. “Ripe Hospitality is donating a portion of all of the proceeds from Thanksgiving meals to several Rhode Island and Boston based non-profits including the Rhode Island Food Bank, the Genesis Center, and Kids Can Cook! As always, we’ve created a menu using organic, all natural products that come from the finest farms, local producers, and specialty suppliers New England has to offer!” Ripe Hospitality’s deadline is November 19, though they recommend reserving sooner if you’re interested in the unique in-home preparation option. Their menu and contact information can be found here.

November 9, 2011 0 comment
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chefs & restaurantsfarmsnews

Persimmon Provisions Now Open in Barrington, RI

by David Dadekian November 18, 2010
written by David Dadekian
Persimmon Provisions 1

Persimmon Provisions, an artisan butcher shop in Barrington, is now open. The store is stocked with turkeys for Thanksgiving, both all-natural and organic varieties. A side of Blackbird Farm beef, from Smithfield, Rhode Island, was brought in and butchered to offer local steaks, roasts and ground meat to customers. Another local farm, Round the Bend Farm from South Dartmouth, Massachusetts, is supplying pork, veal and lamb. The freezer is full of offal, bones, stock and Mangalitsa pork, a highly specialized breed that produces some of the world’s most juicy and flavorful meat and fat products, from Heath Putnam Farms. The shelves are stocked with a number of extra-virgin olive oils, specialty vinegars and salts. There are cheeses and cured meats in the display cases and many more exciting meats to come.

Persimmon Provisions is a full-service butcher shop and the staff looks forward to custom cutting meats for customers, though they will package some of the more popular cuts fresh each day for people on the go. All of the staff at Provisions are trained cooks, so if there’s a cut of meat you’ve been wanting to try but just weren’t sure how to cook it, they can tell you. Wondering what to do with salted capers or Aquidneck honey comb? They’ll have suggestions for you. The display cases are also stocked with foods prepared at sister restaurant Persimmon in Bristol.

From the owners’ web site: “Provisions was borne out of Chef Champe Speidel’s passion for the craft of butchery (he was, in fact, a butcher for ten years before culinary school beckoned) and the desire to bring responsibly raised, carefully sourced animals to the local marketplace. The small shop stocks fresh meats, charcuterie, house-made sausages, sauces, stocks, some cheese, dry goods, and a handful of prepared foods (from the Persimmon kitchen). Special orders, of course, are welcome, too. Want your bird brined? Or your roast trussed? In search of a no-fail way to prep foie gras? We’ve got you covered. Please spread the word!” Persimmon Provisions, 338 County Rd., Barrington, RI (Prince’s Hill Place; next to Prestige Cleaners). 401-337-5885. Open Tuesday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Chef Champe Speidel with a hanging side of Blackbird Farm beef

Chef Champe Speidel with a hanging side of Blackbird Farm beef

Persimmon Provisions butchery tools

Persimmon Provisions butchery tools

Persimmon Provisions 2
Persimmon Provisions artwork by T. Dedoto

Persimmon Provisions artwork by T. Dedoto

Portions of this story appeared in edited form on GoLocalProv.
November 18, 2010 0 comment
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chefs & restaurantsfarms

Farm Fresh RI Local Food Fest 2010 at Castle Hill Inn and Resort in Newport

by David Dadekian August 5, 2010
written by David Dadekian
Schartner Farms's blueberries and blackberries

Schartner Farms's blueberries and blackberries

The fourth annual Farm Fresh Rhode Island Local Food Fest was held this past Tuesday evening and by all accounts it was a huge success in showcasing the amazing bounty of local food, culinary talent and delicious products that Rhode Island has to offer. Even the weather happily participated and it was a gorgeous night at Castle Hill Inn & Resort in Newport. There were over 20 farms, 10 food producers and 12 chefs offering food and wine under the tent and across the lawn at Castle Hill. Several hundred people attended the event, but because of the layout and aforementioned pleasant weather, the evening never seemed too crowded.

The clear crowd-favorite of the evening was Tallulah on Thames‘s Chef Jake Rojas serving Blackbird Farm Mini Beef Burgers with red wine onion jam, arugula, and Great Hill Blue cheese aioli on brioche. There was a constant long line of people at Tallulah’s table until they ran out of burgers (Rojas told me he prepared about 480 of them). Anyone who knows me knows I’m partial to Blackbird Farm’s beef and Rojas did them and himself proud.

I have to give high praise to Chef Champe Speidel’s Warm Soup of Four Town Farm Sweet Corn. When I walked over to Persimmon’s table I wasn’t enthused to see a warm soup on a 80+ degree day in Newport, but it quickly became my favorite dish. Yes, it was warm, but it was so light, almost airy. When I asked how it was done, Speidel told me to get a Vita-Prep, as if I didn’t covet one already. The wood smoked chanterelle mushrooms and zucchini just added so much flavor without overpowering the corn’s sweetness.

Special mention goes to Blackstone Caterers’ Fried Green Tomato with Braised Pork Rillette. Having learned to eat—and make—fried green tomatoes in the South, I’m always a little leery to see them in RI, but these were delicious. My only wish was that Chef Derek Jolie could have made them to order as I bet crisp, right out of the frying oil, they would have been even better.

Other food highlights for me were Chef Matt Jennings of Farmstead‘s Lamb Sausage with Red Planet Potatoes & Arugula and Chef Derek Wagner of Nick’s on Broadway‘s Bomster Scallops with a Cucumber-Tomato Salad. Dessert was covered by several people, but you had to get in line early for Chef Bruce Tillinghast of New Rivers‘ Blueberry Ice Cream with Barden Family Orchard’s White & Yellow Peaches. Chef Tillinghast hand cranks his ice cream! Unfortunately for me, The Cupcakerie was cleaned out before I had a cupcake, but Chef Jonathan Cambra of Castle Hill Inn & Resort had a “surprise” item of mini blueberry cream pies.

To find out more about Farm Fresh Rhode Island and their mission to grow the local food system please take a look here. Visit your local farmers markets this summer and buy some amazingly fresh and delicious food or, if this heat is too much for you, head to a local restaurant that gets product from Farm Fresh’s Market Mobile and see what the great chefs of RI are doing with it.

Persimmon's Warm Soup of Four Town Farm Sweet Corn

Persimmon's Warm Soup of Four Town Farm Sweet Corn

Four Town Farm's peppers

Four Town Farm's peppers

Chef Jake Rojas of Tallulah on Thames with his hugely popular Blackbird Farm's Mini Beef Burgers

Chef Jake Rojas of Tallulah on Thames with his hugely popular Blackbird Farm's Mini Beef Burgers

Local 121's Arcadian Fields' Bharta Smoked Eggplant with Fresh Spices & Cilantro

Local 121's Arcadian Fields' Bharta Smoked Eggplant with Fresh Spices & Cilantro

Nick's on Broadway's Chef Derek Wagner preparing Bomster Scallops with a Cucumber-Tomato Salad

Nick's on Broadway's Chef Derek Wagner preparing Bomster Scallops with a Cucumber-Tomato Salad

Schartner Farms's Rye Seed & Rye Flour

Schartner Farms's Rye Seed & Rye Flour

Four Town Farm's pole beans

Four Town Farm's pole beans

Narragansett Creamery Ricotta with honey

Narragansett Creamery Ricotta with honey

Bally Machree's beets

Bally Machree's beets

Bally Machree's squash

Bally Machree's squash

Blackstone Caterers' Fried Green Tomato with Braised Pork Rillette

Blackstone Caterers' Fried Green Tomato with Braised Pork Rillette

Bomster Scallop shells

Bomster Scallop shells

Castle Hill Inn & Resort's mini blueberry cream pies

Castle Hill Inn & Resort's mini blueberry cream pies

Sunnyside Daytime Dining's Wishing Stone Farm Poached Egg Crostini

Sunnyside Daytime Dining's Wishing Stone Farm Poached Egg Crostini

The Cupcakerie

The Cupcakerie

frying Lamb Sausage for La Laiterie's Lamb Sausage with Red Planet Potatoes & Arugula

frying Lamb Sausage for La Laiterie's Lamb Sausage with Red Planet Potatoes & Arugula

Schartner Farms's blackberries

Schartner Farms's blackberries

Portions of this story appeared in edited form on GoLocalProv.
August 5, 2010 0 comment
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chefs & restaurantsfarmsnews

Rhode Island Farm, Vine and Sea to Table luncheon at James Beard House in New York

by David Dadekian June 21, 2010
written by David Dadekian
Chez Pascal's Chef Matt Gennuso preparing hors d'oeuvres

Chez Pascal's Chef Matt Gennuso preparing hors d'oeuvres

On Thursday, June 17th, the Rhode Island Tourism division along with members of the Providence/Warwick and Newport Convention & Visitors Bureaus hosted a Rhode Island Farm, Vine and Sea to Table luncheon at the James Beard House in New York. Four Rhode Island chefs were invited to prepare dishes made almost entirely from local ingredients, paired with wines from the state’s three wineries. Chef Matt Gennuso from Chez Pascal in Providence prepared the passed hors d’oeuvres, Chef Michael Conetta from The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar in Newport prepared a salad course, Chef Matthew Varga from Gracie’s in Providence prepared the entrée course and Chef Kevin Thiele from One Bellevue at the Hotel Viking in Newport prepared dessert.

The luncheon showcased Rhode Island as a local food and wine travel destination, and guests were writers from major media travel magazines, newspaper and Web site travel sections. It was hosted by RI Tourism Trade Manager Katrina White with presentations by all four chefs along with Director of Tourism Mark Brodeur, DEM Agriculture Chief Ken Ayars and Farm Fresh RI Director Noah Fulmer. Steve Krohn from Sakonnet Vineyards was on hand to discuss the wines.

Some of the farms represented with produce were Allen Farms, Baby Greens Farm, Farming Turtles, Four Town Farm, Schartner Farms, Sweet Berry Farm and Zephyr Farm, which Chef Conetta combined in his salad course. RI seafood was represented by Matunuck Oyster Farm and Bomster Scallops from nearby Stonington. Hill Farm supplied pork belly which Chef Varga turned into bacon, Chef Gennuso used eggs from Wishing Stone Farm and pasture-raised RI beef from Blackbird Farm. Chef Thiele also used Rhody Fresh buttermilk in his dessert’s biscuits and basil from the Hotel Viking’s garden. As an added touch of RI, the intermezzo was a slushy frozen lemonade.

All of the guests were given an “I Got Fresh In RI” reusable canvas bag containing a number of RI local treats. Hopefully they also walked out of the Beard House with a good understanding of how local, healthily raised food is abundantly available in Rhode Island and that our restaurants are a treasure trove of great farm-fresh menu items. Rhode Island’s restaurants have always been a great tourist destination for food lovers and perhaps our farms will give visitors yet another thing to see here.

from left to right: Chez Pascal's Chef Matt Gennuso, One Bellevue at the Hotel Viking's Chef Kevin Thiele, The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar's Chef Michael Conetta and Gracie's Chef Matthew Varga

from left to right: Chez Pascal's Chef Matt Gennuso, One Bellevue at the Hotel Viking's Chef Kevin Thiele, The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar's Chef Michael Conetta and Gracie's Chef Matthew Varga

The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar's Chef Michael Conetta preparing his salad course

The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar's Chef Michael Conetta preparing his salad course

Gracie's Chef Matthew Varga assisting with the plating of the salad course

Gracie's Chef Matthew Varga assisting with the plating of the salad course

One Bellevue at the Hotel Viking's Chef Kevin Thiele plating the intermezzo of somewhat traditional frozen lemon slush

One Bellevue at the Hotel Viking's Chef Kevin Thiele plating the intermezzo of somewhat traditional frozen lemon slush

Preparing Fried Wishing Stone Farm Pullet Eggs

Preparing Fried Wishing Stone Farm Pullet Eggs

Fried Wishing Stone Farm Pullet Eggs with Salsa Verde

Fried Wishing Stone Farm Pullet Eggs with Salsa Verde

Rhode Island Stuffies: Matunuck Littleneck Clams Stuffed with Chorizo, Mirepoix, Herb Bread Crumbs and Lemon Confit

Rhode Island Stuffies: Matunuck Littleneck Clams Stuffed with Chorizo, Mirepoix, Herb Bread Crumbs and Lemon Confit

Couldn't resist making sure to get these two photos, first Chef Kevin Thiele photographing the salad course

Couldn't resist making sure to get these two photos, first Chef Kevin Thiele photographing the salad course

Second, Chef Michael Conetta also photographing the salad course

Second, Chef Michael Conetta also photographing the salad course

Hill Farm pork belly, cured, breaded and fried into "croutons" by Gracie's Chef Matthew Varga

Hill Farm pork belly, cured, breaded and fried into "croutons" by Gracie's Chef Matthew Varga

Preparing the dessert course of Sweet Berry Farms Strawberries with a warm Rhody Fresh Buttermilk Biscuit and Hotel Viking's Garden Basil Infused Ice Cream

Preparing the dessert course of Sweet Berry Farms Strawberries with a warm Rhody Fresh Buttermilk Biscuit and Hotel Viking's Garden Basil Infused Ice Cream

Chez Pascal's Chef Matt Gennuso's mise en place

Chez Pascal's Chef Matt Gennuso's mise en place

Blackbird Farm Beef Tartare with Herb Baked Narragansett Creamery Ricotta and Garlic Chive Blossoms

Blackbird Farm Beef Tartare with Herb Baked Narragansett Creamery Ricotta and Garlic Chive Blossoms

Dining room of the James Beard House

Dining room of the James Beard House

Rhode Island Farm, Vine and Sea to Table menus

Rhode Island Farm, Vine and Sea to Table menus

"I Got Fresh in RI" www.getfreshbuylocal.org reusable canvas bags

"I Got Fresh in RI" www.getfreshbuylocal.org reusable canvas bags

Portions of this story appeared in edited form on GoLocalProv.
June 21, 2010 0 comment
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