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Walrus and Carpenter Oysters Announces Fourth Annual Farm Dinner Series with Eight Renowned Chefs

by David Dadekian May 5, 2016
written by David Dadekian

This summer, Walrus and Carpenter Oysters is proud to present their 4th Annual Oyster Farm Dinner Series with Al Forno, Avenue N, birch, Blue Hill NY, Gracie’s, north, Persimmon and Tallulah on Thames. Each dinner features a tour of the farm, an in-the-water raw-bar, a multi-course dinner prepared by a chef committed to sourcing local seafood, and wine selections by the experts at Bottles Fine Wine. The dinner series will be produced by Eat Drink RI.

Walrus and Carpenter Oysters 2015 Farm Dinner, photo by David DadekianWalrus and Carpenter Oysters 2015 Farm Dinner, photo by David Dadekian

Walrus and Carpenter Oysters 2015 Farm Dinner, photo by David Dadekian

Each of the eight dinner experiences begin at 3 p.m. with a boat ride and tour of the 6-acre offshore oyster farm, with discussion and time for questions about the local ecosystem and environmental benefits of oyster farming. Following the tour, guests will enjoy an in-the-water raw bar featuring freshly harvested Walrus and Carpenter Oysters. After the raw bar, experience Rhode Island’s stunning East Beach with a view of the open Atlantic Ocean (swimming encouraged!), followed by the seated multi-course dinner paired with wine. Boats will return to land around 7:30 p.m.

Last year this series sold out in 4 minutes. Tickets for the 2016 dinners will go on sale Monday, May 16th at 9 a.m. at www.walrusandcarpenteroysters.com. Below is the schedule of chefs for this year.

Monday, July 18th | Chef Matthew Varga of Gracie’s
Varga is a graduate of Johnson & Wales University, and began working at Gracie’s in 2007. He was promoted to Executive Chef in 2010. Since then, Gracie’s has won the AAA four-diamond award five years in a row for their seasonally-inspired cuisine and impeccable service. Varga has been featured in Art Culinaire and as a guest chef for the Democratic Governors Association Taste of America gala.

Tuesday, July 19th | Chef Jake Rojas of Tallulah on Thames & Tallulah’s Taqueria
Rojas originates from El Paso, Texas and is a graduate of the Culinary Art Institute of Dallas. In 2014, he received a StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef Award. Some of his earlier career tours include Sous Chef at Joel Robuchon at the Mansion & Chef de Partie at Alain Ducasse’s Mix. Jake’s restaurants embody the flavors from his childhood, with technique from his experiences working with the best culinary leaders in the country.

Wednesday, July 20th | Chef Meytal Kotik of Blue Hill NY
Meytal is the chef de cuisine of Blue Hill in New York City. Transforming daily, the menu focuses on local food sourced from producers who respect artisanal techniques. Ingredients come from nearby farms, including Blue Hill Farm in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, and Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in Pocantico Hills, New York. Following culinary school, Meytal worked for Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group before joining the Blue Hill team.

Thursday, July 21st | Chef Nick Rabar of Avenue N
Nick has been cooking in Rhode Island ever since relocating from Upstate New York in 2001. He spent his first 10 years in Providence before opening Avenue N American Kitchen in the historic Rumford Center in Rumford, RI. He describes his food as approachable, progressive American fare that is guided by the seasons. He is the Emmy Nominated host of Nick Rabar: Chef 2 Go, 2-time Chef of the Year for the state of Rhode Island, has been named one of the Best and Brightest Young American Chefs. Chef Rabar sits on the board of directors at Hope & Main and has made numerous appearances on the Food Network.

Monday, August 15th | Chef David Reynoso of Al Forno
Reynoso is the executive chef at the internationally renowned Al Forno restaurant, where local ingredients shine in dishes cooked in wood-burning ovens and on grills over hardwood charcoal fires. He is the recipient of many accolades, including StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef Award. For this dinner, David will be tapping into his roots with a meal inspired by his birthplace, Mexico. Chef Reynoso’s menus feature seasonal New England ingredients, as well as a variety of cultural and culinary influences.

Tuesday, August 16th | Chef Benjamin Sukle of birch & Oberlin
Sukle takes a “from the roots up” approach to all aspects of the dining experience, expressing the best of New England through a creative, modern and environmentally engaging menu. Ben received a 2014 StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef Award, and has been twice nominated for Food & Wine’s People’s Best New Chef. He has been nominated for the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef and Best Chef New England.

Wednesday, August 17th | Chef Champe Speidel of Persimmon & Persimmon Provisions
Speidel is the chef and owner of Persimmon Restaurant, newly transplanted from Bristol to Providence’s East Side at 99 Hope Street in the former Rue de L’Espoir space. He has been serving contemporary American cuisine in harmony with the seasons since 2005. In 2010 he opened Persimmon Provisions in Barrington, a whole-animal butchery with well-curated cheeses, charcuterie and pantry items. Speidel is a six-time nominee for Best Chef: Northeast by the James Beard Foundation and recently was honored by his Alma Mater Johnson & Wales University as their 2016 Honorary Doctoral Candidate.

Thursday, August 18th | Chef James Mark of north & north bakery
Mark is the cook/owner/plumber/garbageman/shoveler/gopher/cat wrangler of north and north bakery. In 2014, James received the StarChefs.com 2014 Coastal New England Rising Star Community Chef award for his philanthropic commitment to the Rhode Island Community Food Bank. Prior to north, James worked at Nicks on Broadway and Thee Red Fez. In 2008 he helped open Momofuku Ko in NYC, and a year later he helped open Momofuku Milk Bar.

Please be aware that each dinner experience involves wading in ankle to knee-deep water, and a 15-minute walk to the beach, so dress accordingly. Guests who choose to take a swim are encouraged to wear bathing suits and bring a change of clothes. Boats will begin to depart from Charlestown, RI at 2:30 p.m., with the final boat departing at 3 p.m. Tickets are $225.00 per guest, all-inclusive, and will go on sale Monday, May 16th at 9 a.m. at www.walrusandcarpenteroysters.com.

May 5, 2016 0 comment
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A Local Thanksgiving: Purchasing a Turkey or the Whole Meal

by David Dadekian November 9, 2011
written by David Dadekian

turkeysWhether you cook a big Thanksgiving dinner yourself or purchase a complete meal, there are several options for locally raised and produced dinners. This isn’t a comprehensive list of everyone in the area doing turkeys and Thanksgiving meals, but a select group for truly local eats. Here’s to a southern New England Thanksgiving! Raise a glass of local wine or local beer.

Turkeys

If you’re cooking Thanksgiving dinner, locally farm-raised turkeys are definitely the way to go. They’re  more flavorful with better skin than mass-produced turkeys and, since they’re available fresh they’re usually much more moist than frozen birds. Broad-breasted whites, your typical meat turkey, are well raised on pasture with no hormones or other chemicals. The turkeys I’ve had from local turkey farms have been so juicy that I don’t brine them, something I had been doing to grocery store turkeys for years.

There are several farms in the area raising pastured turkeys so please look around your home. I mention these two farms because I’ve had their turkeys. The first is Ekonk Hill Turkey Farm near my home in Sterling, Connecticut (the farm is about 4 miles over the R.I. border). They’re well into their reservation period right now, but because they raise so many still have turkeys available, though I would advise calling now to get the size you’d like. We regularly buy Ekonk Hill turkeys and they’re some of the best birds I’ve ever cooked.

The other turkey I recommend is from the farm I work with, Blackbird Farm. I cooked last year’s turkey from Blackbird Farm on my charcoal grill and everyone raved about it. Unfortunately, our turkeys are already all reserved at the farm stand, but I’m happy to pass along the inside scoop that Persimmon Provisions, a marvelous butcher shop in Barrington, has purchased 30 of the birds to sell at the store. I have no idea what their reservations are like, so I would recommend calling.

Catering

So you want to have a big family dinner at home but aren’t able to cook? You’re going to want to look into one of these options:

Easy Entertaining, Inc. is offering a number of complete dinner packages or a la carte choices. From their order form, “Easy Entertaining Inc. prides itself on sourcing over 70% of products from a 250 mile radius, year-round. Serving a Thanksgiving package from Easy Entertaining Inc. is serving locally raised vegetables from Schartner Farms, Confreda Farms, Cooks Valley, Barden Family Orchards and many more. Feasting with Easy Entertaining is roasting a humanely raised, hormone and antibiotic free, grain fed, happy bird from Baffoni Poultry Farms. Thanksgiving with Easy Entertaining is serving a homemade cranberry-apple sauce, with cranberries grown in bogs less than 30 miles away.” Easy Entertaining’s form with directions can be found here. The deadline for ordering is November 17.

Tastings Wine Bar & Bistro‘s Chef Ben Lacy is putting together a Thanksgiving dinner to be picked up, based around an organically raised farm fresh turkey from Misty Knoll Farms, which you can also purchase uncooked if you want to prepare the bird but not the rest of the meal. Tastings is offering several soups, salads, pies, rolls and 11 different side dishes. Their deadline is November 18 and the order form can be found here.

Tallulah on Thames in Newport is offering a “Farm to Table” Thanksgiving to Go for the second year in a row. The meal includes a heritage breed turkey from Brambly Farms along with many sides made from locally farmed produce. More information can be found on their “To Go” page. The deadline is November 19 and the order form can be found here.

Ripe Hospitality is offering a Thanksgiving meal that not only feeds your family but also gives back to feed others as well. “Ripe Hospitality is donating a portion of all of the proceeds from Thanksgiving meals to several Rhode Island and Boston based non-profits including the Rhode Island Food Bank, the Genesis Center, and Kids Can Cook! As always, we’ve created a menu using organic, all natural products that come from the finest farms, local producers, and specialty suppliers New England has to offer!” Ripe Hospitality’s deadline is November 19, though they recommend reserving sooner if you’re interested in the unique in-home preparation option. Their menu and contact information can be found here.

November 9, 2011 0 comment
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cooking

Charcutepalooza April: Hot Smoking: tasso ham and Canadian bacon

by David Dadekian April 15, 2011
written by David Dadekian
Boston Butt being hot smoked into tasso ham

Boston Butt being hot smoked into tasso ham

Another month has passed and it’s time for the fourth Charcutepalooza installment. This time we’re hot smoking (with a little bit of past months’s salt curing and brining thrown in too) and we’re back to all pork using Boston Butt (shoulder) and loin cuts. Once again I turned to Persimmon Provisions for some of my meat, buying some beautifully thick, ruddy Boston Butt from them that I then sliced up into the pieces you see on the Weber grill above.

The loin came from an animal that I saw alive on a Thursday morning, and packed it’s loin (along with a ham larger than my younger daughter) into my trunk on Friday evening. I was fortunate enough to be included in the Cochon and Charcuterie Workshop given at Claddagh Farms by Neal Foley, Kate Hill and Dominique Chapolard. At the pre-workshop workshop Foley demonstrated the slaughter and dressing of two nearly 300 pound Yorkshire pigs he had raised at Claddagh Farms in Montville, Maine.

two Yorkshires hanging in cold room at Claddagh Farms

two Yorkshires hanging in cold room at Claddagh Farms

On the next day, Chapolard demonstrated butchering of these sides of pork, and while the loin pictured below is not the one that I took home (it went home with fellow Charcutepalooz-ian Janis) that is the cut that I bought. I couldn’t help but slice off a few boneless pork chops before I put the rest aside for this month’s Charcutepalooza challenge. Here’s a couple more photos from the Cochon and Charcuterie Workshop before I get into that challenge.

Dominique Chapolard cutting pork with Kate Hill in back instructing

Dominique Chapolard cutting pork with Kate Hill in back instructing

pork loin being trimmed by Dominique Chapolard

pork loin being trimmed by Dominique Chapolard

So the Chartcutepalooza challenge put forth for April was hot smoking, something I enjoy often with one of the ten greatest cooking devices I could own, a Weber kettle grill. I dragged my Weber out of the garage a little early this year as I don’t usually smoke during the first two weeks of April. It’s a good thing I set up a big patio umbrella alongside my Weber because all three times I’ve smoked this month it’s taken place in the rain. In addition to the tasso ham and Canadian bacon for Charcutepalooza, I also smoked some pastrami for a cooking class I taught at Blackbird Farm.

I don’t use any smoking add-ons to the Weber for hot smoking, though I am very tempted to buy the Smokenator 1000 that I’ve been reading about. Basically I hot smoke by lighting a chimney starter about half-full with lump charcoal, dumping the hot coals on one side of the kettle and then covering the coals with wood chips that have been soaking in water. I keep the bottom and top vents of the Weber partially open (adjust as best as you see fit to manage the air flow for temperature control) and place the meat on the opposite side of the kettle from the smoldering heat. Lid up and watch the smoke pour out of the thing. When the smoke starts to thin, add more soaked wood chips. Continue this process until the meat hits its desired internal temperature (I usually also flip the meat once) and you smell like a campfire.

apple wood chips soaking

apple wood chips soaking

soaked wood chips burning on top of coal layer

soaked wood chips burning on top of coal layer

close-up of smoked tasso ham

close-up of smoked tasso ham

I learned about, and first made tasso ham (it’s ridiculously simple) in Louisiana. So to say my tasso recipe is hot would be like saying the bayou in August can get humid. I love tasso and I love making jambalaya with it. I make a lot of jambalaya, not as much as I used to since my daughters aren’t too keen on spicy food yet, but as they learn to love the burn I’ll step up production. My first choice of pork product in jambalaya is andouille sausage, if I can get real, good andouille. Here in New England, the best I can find is from D’Artagnan, which is fine, but not always easy to find. So when there is no andouille, there is tasso.

Here then is, my “standard” jambalaya recipe. I should say, I never quite make it exactly like this recipe (see note at end of recipe), sometimes adding a little more of this or trying a little bit of that, maybe you want shrimp instead of chicken. My adopted family in Louisiana swear by using stewed canned tomatoes, but I prefer plain tomatoes. Just make it with love!

Jambalaya

1/2 lb tasso ham, diced
1 lb chicken meat, cubed
1 Tbs vegetable oil
1 cup red bell pepper, chopped, seeded
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1 cup yellow onions, chopped
kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 can diced tomato
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried chervil
1 tsp dried parsley
1 tsp paprika
2 1/2 cups chicken stock
Tabasco
1 cup rice

In a large pot over medium heat render diced tasso ham.  Remove tasso and add some of the vegetable oil to pot (if needed, depends on how much you render out of the tasso), cook the cut up chicken. Remove chicken, add rest of the oil if needed, cook the onions, pepper & celery with kosher salt, black pepper and cayenne until softened.  Add tomato, garlic and all the herbs, cook for minute more.  Add chicken stock, cooked tasso ham, cooked chicken and Tabasco.  Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and add rice.  Simmer until done.

Note: in all honesty, I’ve been making this for years and don’t measure much of it. It’s about 1 bell pepper, 1 stalk of celery, 1 onion, some salt & pepper, and some herbs to taste.  I’m estimating the teaspoons of the dried herbs, it’s probably more like heaping teaspoons in some cases and scant teaspoons in others.

So that’s the tasso part of the challenge, what did I do with that beautiful piece of loin that I hot smoked into Canadian bacon?

pork loin on the Weber smoked into Canadian bacon

pork loin on the Weber smoked into Canadian bacon

We needed something for dinner on Wednesday. I had some leftover chicken, the Canadian bacon, a chunk of really sharp Cheddar cheese and there had been a lot of Twitter chatter about English muffins that day. The chatter was around Michael Ruhlman’s recipe for English muffins, which looks excellent. I am comfortable with Alton Brown’s recipe (available online but also found in his second Good Eats cookbook) so I made that version, but plan on trying Ruhlman’s next time.

I whipped up the English muffins, split a couple after they cooled (as usual, the waiting is the hardest part), layered the chicken, Canadian bacon and Cheddar and put it under the broiler for two minutes. I would call it an Americanized Croque Monsieur with chicken, except with all the things going on I suppose it’s an American/Canadian/Anglicized Croque Monsieur, if any of the foods actually came from the countries they’re named for. Either way it was delicious.

That’s another Charcutepalooza challenge happily completed and consumed. Thank you yet again to Mrs. Wheelbarrow and The Yummy Mummy.

Canadian bacon fresh off the smoke 1

Canadian bacon fresh off the smoke 1

Canadian bacon fresh off the smoke 2

Canadian bacon fresh off the smoke 2

April 15, 2011 0 comment
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Charcutepalooza March: Brining: corned beef

by David Dadekian March 15, 2011
written by David Dadekian
All the ingredients needed to create corned beef

All the ingredients needed to create corned beef

One of the quickest and easiest ways to change the flavor of a food is to brine it. Essentially a heavily salted liquid with aromatics, a brine can add flavor to meats and fish, turn vegetables into pickles and, in the case of this month’s Charcutepalooza challenge, alter the profile of beef brisket into the popular March meal: corned beef.

When I was growing up, at some point in mid-March, there would be a pot of boiling water on the stove with an oddly pink piece of meat in it, along with some potatoes and other vegetables. Corned beef, so named because the large salt crystals used to brine the brisket resembled kernels of corn, the very Irish-American dish, was always served around St. Patrick’s Day in our Armenian-American home. I never really cared for it and when I no longer lived at home it wasn’t something I ever considered cooking for myself.

Around ten years ago I learned about brining from the same person it seems as if most of the world learned it from, Alton Brown. O.K., maybe I’m exaggerating, but it did seem like Brown brined a turkey on Good Eats and suddenly every home cook was trying it. In the days before I could easily find pasture-raised chicken, turkey or pork, brining made a world of difference in the flavor of supermarket meats that had had all the taste bred out of them. Now that I’m fortunate enough to buy really excellent local meat, I don’t brine as much as I used to, but it’s still an excellent technique for older chickens or very lean cuts of pork like chops or loin.

Charcutepalooza

Or in the case of beef brisket, because you can turn it into corned beef that actually tastes delicious and not at all like something displayed in a huge pile in a supermarket refrigerated display once a year. A brined brisket can also be smoked and steamed into pastrami perfection, but to paraphrase Brown, that’s another article.

The corned beef you’ll see below started like most of my corned beef and pastrami creations of the last few years, with a good size, pasture-raised, 100% Angus brisket from Blackbird Farm (I work with the farm, but certainly wouldn’t work there if I didn’t love their beef). My brine is a combination of ingredients from a few different sources that I’ve played with over the years. When I began to assemble everything, the photograph you see above came into my head and I had to make it (see last photo for exactly what’s what). A few people who’ve seen the photo already have asked why the pink curing salt is still in it’s bag and not in a bowl. That’s because I have a crawling 1-year-old and while it may be an adventure if she gets a hold of a peppercorn or juniper berry, the nitrite should be kept secure (and then I thought the red pepper flakes and tiny mustard seeds were probably a bad idea to let loose on the floor as well). So after making the brine and submerging the brisket for about seven days in the refrigerator, I then had (uncooked) corned beef.

It’s been over twenty years since I’ve had to endure the Dadekian mid-March corned beef. In the meantime, I married an Irish-American girl whose family loves a boiled dinner. So now I happily “corn” a brisket a few times a year and the other night we had a Dadekian mid-March corned beef dinner, complete with boiled potatoes, carrots and onions. My mother-in-law made soda bread so I made rye. Hopefully, my Irish-Armenian-American daughters Brigid and Moira will look forward to it each year.

Notes:

  • My photos this month reflect a close-up look at brisket and the striations in this heavily used muscle (kind of the breast of the animal). When cutting brisket, be it corned beef or pastrami or just cooked as it is, it’s recommended to slice across the grain, to get a piece where all those muscle fibers are short and easier to chew.
  • Also, like my bacon, the brisket never leaves a refrigerator or stove-top, so pink curing salt is not a necessity here. However, if you don’t use pink salt your final boiled corned beef will be more of a gray color than the vibrant red we’ve come to know. I’ve had to get pink salt online at The Spice House. There is now a locally available source, Persimmon Provisions in Barrington, Rhode Island.
  • Fittingly enough, I’ll be at Claddagh Farms on St. Patrick’s Day this year, at the Cochon & Charcuterie Workshop given by @Podchef, Kate Hill & Dominique Chapolard. There is a waitlist for the main workshop, but space is still available for the prequel day slaughter.
  • Thanks again to Mrs. Wheelbarrow and The Yummy Mummy for the Charcutepalooza fun.
Brined, uncooked Blackbird Farm brisket, with some beautiful fat

Brined, uncooked Blackbird Farm brisket, with some beautiful fat

Muscle fibers in brined, uncooked brisket

Muscle fibers in brined, uncooked brisket

Those same fibers after cooking the brisket

Those same fibers after cooking the brisket

Another angle on the fibers and fat

Another angle on the fibers and fat

Corned beef sliced "against the grain"

Corned beef sliced "against the grain"

Cut muscle fiber of corned beef

Cut muscle fiber of corned beef

Dinner - potatoes (carrots & onions underneath), rye & soda breads, corned beef

Dinner - potatoes (carrots & onions underneath), rye & soda breads, corned beef

All the (labeled) ingredients needed to create corned beef

All the (labeled) ingredients needed to create corned beef

March 15, 2011 0 comment
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